SCOURING: The First Step In The Natural Dyeing Process
First step in naturally dyeing fabric: Scouring
TOOLS NEEDED:
- Gloves (those big tall ones you use in the kitchen)
- Scale
- Bowl for weighing Soda ash & synthrapol in
- Fabric / clothing to be dyed: This method is for Linen & also works the same for other cellulose fibers such as cotton & Hemp
- Thermometer (I love the digital one so I can keep the lid on, stir then shoot the laser in the water to get the temp)
- Spoon to measure soda ash
- Long stirring stick for stirring fabric
- Pot that fits fibers & allows them to move freely
- Rags (cause can get messy)
***Whatever tools you use for natural dyeing need to be used merely and only for natural dyeing ; once used for the dyeing process you will not want to use them for eating again**
Thrift stores are a great place to start to get pots & tools & such for natural dyeing (:
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What is scouring?
-Scouring is the textile term for cleaning the fibers prior to mordanting & dyeing.
-Scouring is a critical step in the natural dyeing process as it is the step that removes natural oils, waxes & dirt so that the in the next step of mordanting, the mordant will be able to adhere clearly & evenly to the fabric.
I will go over two methods for scouring;
Soda Ash & synthrapol method:
What is soda ash & Synthrapol?
-Soda ash (sodium carbonate):
A powerful alkali that breaks down impurities; it is naturally derived from natural mineral deposits or extracted from plant-based sources
-Synthrapol:
A specialized textile detergent widely used in dyeing & fabric preparation. It is valued for its ability to remove excess dye, dirt, & oils without damaging fibers. Synthrapol is non-toxic, biodegradable & is free from harsh chemicals.
Steps for this method:
- Weigh your fabric when it’s dry!! & Record it somewhere you can keep coming back to.
- This will be key for all steps of the dyeing process & will be referred to as the weight of fabric (WOF).
- Measure 2-5% WOF of Soda Ash (use 2 for lighter fabrics & 5 for thicker weave)
- Ex. Let’s say your fabric weighs 600G
- Calculation: 600 x 0.02 = 12G of Soda Ash
- Measure Synthrapol 1-2% WOF
- 600 x .01 = 6G synthrapol
- Fill pot with hot water
- Add Synthrapol & stir well
- Slowly add & stir in soda ash
- Turn burners on & put lid on pot
- Heat up to about 150F & keep it there for 30-60 minutes; stirring every 10-15 minutes & checking temp
- Let fabric cool before handling
- Rinse out well
- If you are going to head to mordanting right away then its ready to put in the pot or if you will mordant in the next day then soak your fabric in a bucket of water to ‘wet out’ the fibers until ready to mordant; a necessary step before mordanting or dyeing
- If you are going to wait a bit to mordant then you can put the fabric on a spin cycle in the washing machine to rid excess water & hang the fabric to dry; store in clean place until you are ready to mordant.
Washing machine method
Steps for washing machine method:
- Serge edges of fabric so they do not fray
- Put fabric in washing machine with generous amount of Tide detergent
- Tides pH helps to clean as it is alkali
- If you use natural laundry detergent add 2% WOF Soda ash to the washing machine with detergent
- Wash on HOT cycle with 2 rinses
- Fabric can go direct to mordant or keep in bucket of water to wet out until ready for mordanting OR hang to dry & store in clean place until you are ready to mordant.
YAY!!!! You have now scoured your fabric & are ready to move onto the next step; MORDANTING!
Video & blog for mordanting coming next <3